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Murray's new Demo FloMedia System.

Discussion in 'Commercial Systems' started by Murray, Mar 11, 2012.

  1. Murray

    Murray Site Admin Staff Member

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    You are right Dean. Come March I will revisit the whole thing and find ways to improve the entire process. And yes, I spent a heap on the project. The flue cost 500.00 without anything else.
     
  2. Trewarin

    Trewarin Member

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    I always thought the using black painted or rubber lined (on the outside) NFT tubing as part of a system could suffice for a LOT of heating on not-raining winter days. like solar water heating, but with useful grow space.
     
  3. Murray

    Murray Site Admin Staff Member

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    Yes it will help a little in winter, but becomes a major problem in summer. Best to grow fish species that are suitable to your area is the first step. In Vic it is a good thing to grow Trout and / or Silver Perch . Trout during winter , Silvers year round. In more severe climates heating may be unavoidable.
     
  4. TonyS

    TonyS Active Member

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    This thread has had an interesting evolution from its humble beginnings,

    Murray, with the timber grow beds, what is the size of the timber you have used (90mm * 35mm)? Is the ply 12mm or something thicker. Are you happy with how this is holding up 6 months on?

    Thanks
    Tony
     
  5. SimonWalters

    SimonWalters New Member

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    Hi Murray,
    Where abouts in your flow media system is the swirl filter?
    Is it fitted after the media beds but before the rafts?
    I am building something similar.
    Cheers, Simon
     
  6. TonyS

    TonyS Active Member

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    Hi Simon,

    I have seen Murray's System first hand, the swirl filter is inbetween the FT and the sump. The sump pumps up to the header then from there the header supplies the FT, gravel beds and rafts on individual gravity supplys which inturn all dump back to the sump and arround they go again.

    Tony
     
  7. Murray

    Murray Site Admin Staff Member

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    It operates as CHOP 2 As described by TonyS above. The filtration process in an ongoing process. The swirl filter, or more correctly, the settlement tank allows the bigger solid material to settle out of the water stream before it gets toi the sump.
     
  8. SimonWalters

    SimonWalters New Member

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    Hi Tony, that's how I'm building it. great news.
    Cheers, Simon
     
  9. SimonWalters

    SimonWalters New Member

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    Thanks Murray, just wanted to check, cheers, Simon
     
  10. Murray

    Murray Site Admin Staff Member

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    Thanks for bringing this thread to my attention again Andy.
    Yesterday we started work on another backup modification to the FloMedia system. We had an overnight power outage for this part of the greenhouse. The earth leakage switch in the main switch box tripped for some reason. During heavy rain overnight something must have become wet to trip the switch.
    The backup for the fish tank itself fired up as it is supposed to but the backup pump for the system wide header tank did not work.....again. I have wired in a flow switch which is supposed to fire up a 2000 gph x 24 volt pump. The flow switch idea has proved to be a flop. It gets a build up of bio film inside and that is enough to prevent the switch from working unless the switch gets disassembled and cleaned every few weeks.
    So we are wiring in a high quality marine float switch. This will activate a relay that will in turn switch the 2000 gph DC pump. The relay will be wired in so that the default position will be DC pump on. Should anything go wrong with the circuit the DC pump will default to the ON state.
     
  11. Dillon

    Dillon Member

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    Hi Murray, have you considered using a pressure switch piped into the delivery manifold of the main water pump you wish to monitor rather than a flow switch? Non intrusive and no moving parts to get gummed up with biofilm.

    An added benefit of an elevated sump tank in your new system is a high level nutrient water supply for any vertical hydroponics you intend to grow in the greenhouse, I have been looking into pneumatic diaphragm pumps powered from the airstone air supply to lift the water but they are proving far too expensive.

    Regards
     
  12. Murray

    Murray Site Admin Staff Member

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    Yes Dillon, air lift pumps are an interesting subject. Recently I had the pleasure of seing some in operation and demonstrated by Glenn Martinez of HI. Very interesting. I have been playing around with these for a while now but still not convinced it much cheaper to run than a regular pump.
    s
     
  13. Dillon

    Dillon Member

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    I agree Murray, but for clarification, a pneumatic diaphragm pump, whilst capable of driving an air lift pump isn’t an air lift pump, it’s a positive displacement pump driven by compressed air, the benefits of such a pump over an air lift pump are that it can work from a negative head, flowrate is fully controllable and capable of lifting in excess of 10m providing of course the air pressure is adequate, the air pressures available from say a 0.75-1kW blower would be more than adequate to lift a water supply 2-2.5m, additionally being powered from the pneumatic line feeding the airstones in the greenhouse negates the need for additional electrical supplies to every cluster of vertical hydroponics. But the pumps are expensive and I pledged many years ago that I would never again go down the cheap and cheerful Chinese road. I think it was Enistein's definition of insanity;

    :)

    Regards
     
  14. Murray

    Murray Site Admin Staff Member

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    Hi Dillon,
    Re the flow switch, I have fitted a good old fashioned marine float switch in the top of the header tank. Hooks up to the 24 volt DC system and switches a 2000 gph Rule bilge pump. Works really well and I have a lot of faith it will continue to do so.....if the mains go out within a minute the water level in the header will drop enough to switch the 24 volt pump on.....

    and, like to know more about your plans for a pneumatic diaphragm pump.

    I have access to some pretty good 24 volt diaphragm pumps that can deliver 13 to 15 lpm of water and they are terrific, reliable etc...but burn a heap of amps. They will also pump air efficiently and at good pressure.

    Perhaps we should start another thread on Air Lift Water Pumping ....it is a very interesting subject.
     
  15. jakmag@hotmail.com

    jakmag@hotmail.com New Member

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    I am setting up my first aquaponics system based on the IBC system. I have been dreaming about setting up a system for some years. I live in Brazil in one of the hottest parts. Any way my plan is to cut my teeth on the IBC system same as the one in Murrays video. Then expand this to something bigger.
    With my future expansion plans in mind. It always seemed a waist to filter and through away good fish poo in the commercial DWC system and I could not understand why they did not use a gravel bed with plants in as the filter system. Now I believe that Murray is just about to show us how it is done. I will set up my IBC system so that at a later date I could incorporate the floating raft part later. If I had could see the layout for the media flow system then I could plan the IBC setup with this future possible expansion in mind. I have made a plan of how I think you could add a DWC to the IBC system. Please let me have your comments.
    By the way I live in one of the hottest parts of Brazil and the really hot temperatures are going to be my biggest challenge. I am currently working out how I can cheaply insulate everything. I have lived in hot countries before but the heat that comes from the ground is twice as hot as the sun and the temp dose not drop at night.
    Flow Media my way- .jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2013
  16. shayne

    shayne New Member

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    I didn't see a follow up on the header tank success?

    As I'm just constructing my first system and have the found the pump i have is actually much more capable than I'm going to need and have two more poly tanks (5000L) on order I'm seriously looking to deploy these into the system - one as a header tank and one as the sump tank. I have the luxury of a sloping site so construction of the holding tank is nothing more than levelling out a bit of ground.

    My idea would be that the pump would run as often as necessary and would only kick in when either the sump tank reached a certain height or the header tank dropped to a certain height (one or the other). I would then have a throughput capacity of 5000L per pumping cycle and some protection against power outage (depending on where in the cycle the outage occurred). In this case, I can never have a pump too big and it comes down to efficiency of pumping to a particular head height.

    I would have thought the most important calculation is to ensure you have enough pressure at the FT bank (assuming this is first below the header tank) to provide the hourly water exchange you desire for all FTs controlled by a valve and everything else gravity fed from there (essentially enough GBs to take the full output from the RFF) and back to the sump?

    In my case I have no specifications on the pump (davey XB260 pool pump) so have no idea what it's capable of. I doubt I will get to the 40m where my other tanks for domestic use are located and i also doubt i need that much head height! I therefore need to carefully locate the header tank to A) get the water into it with the pump I have and B) get enough pressure at the FTs. Any engineers out there that can provide this calculation? I would be using 40mm to the header tank, and 40mm back to the FTs. While part of the pressure will be supplied by the column back to the FTs (40mm pipe x (say) 10m) there will be a restriction from the header tank as I'd want to use the existing output (25mm I think).

    I'd also need to factor in a differential between header tank full (2.1m high d+(say) 10m higher than FTs) and tank empty (minus the 2.1m). So I guess I'd get reduced flow closer to the end of the cycle, would this matter or I'd need to build this overhead in?
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2015
  17. Jbarl

    Jbarl New Member

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    Hi Murry,

    about to flow coat my fibreglass sump tank. It is quite a big 5000/6000 ltrs and has quite a bit of flex in it. I was wanting to flow coat it in the greenhouse to keep it dry as it cures. My question is when i will need to move it back outside i need to get it up on an angle which causes a fair amount of flex. Is this likely to effect/crack the cured flow coat. Reason i am coating it is that i bought it second hand and i can see some splinters of fibrelass appearing on the inside of the tank, its smooth otherwise and have repaired cracks at the top/lip of tank.

    cheers

    Jamie
     

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